LizA few days ago I hosted our second Truth in Beauty forum for senior health and beauty editors and members of the beauty press. Last time, our topic was absorption and Professor Jonathan Hadgraft discussed precisely what can (or, as it turns out, what can’t) penetrate through the skin. He successfully disproved the beauty myth that 60% of what we put onto our skin is absorbed into the bloodstream. The figure is more like 1-2% and even this small amount is doubtful (you can read more on this subject in our Blog archives from October 11th 2007, October 19th and November 9th 2006). This time we turned our attention on busting yet another pervasive beauty myth and one that has caused much scare-mongering and worry. The subject under scrutiny was how safe are the preservatives in skincare? You may well have read articles over the years with attention-grabbing, tabloid headlines such as Toxic Toiletries! or Killer Cosmetics! – especially when a group of preservatives called parabens are mentioned. So I invited leading independent dermatologist Professor Michael Cork, together with Dene Godfrey, a technical specialist with more than 25 years expertise in this field, to discuss the issues and examine the scientific evidence for such fears.
As it turns out, there is a danger with preservatives – but it is not what you might expect. The danger is in not using preservatives – especially in a formulation such as a moisturiser or body lotion which is a mix of oils and water. Any formulation that has water or aqua in its ingredient labelling needs to be properly preserved to keep it safe for us to use (and even those made without water may need preserving too). Professor Cork is a leading eczema specialist and his interest in this subject was triggered by patients who were using un-preserved natural remedies for their eczema and developing dangerously septic skin conditions as a result. One little boy very nearly died simply by using a non-preserved cream that was full of bugs on his damaged skin. Professor Cork showed plenty of gruesome slides to illustrate his point. His team are just completing a clinical study highlighting the perils of not using properly preserved skincare and this is due to be published in the next few months in a leading international medical journal. I’ll write more about this when it’s published.
So, as preservatives are so important for our health and safety, which ones should we be using? You may be surprised to hear that some of the safest and most effective are the family of parabens, first used in the 1920’s but largely out of favour due to incredible scare-stories about their safety. So, what is the truth here? Are parabens dangerous? Again, the answer may surprise you as it is a total and unequivocal No! As a result of our expert forum, I am now in the process of putting together a factsheet on the subject of preservatives in general – and parabens in particular. This will be available shortly on our website. In the meantime, I can tell you the following facts about parabens which might give you some reassurance if you have been worried by the many misguided media reports: Parabens are nature-identical ingredients first found in fruit where they occur as a natural preservative. You’ll find parabens in produce such as apples and blackberries and they are the main reason why blueberries stay fresh longer than strawberries. They first began to get a bad press following studies in 1998 which discovered that some parabens (no activity was discovered in methylparaben) have mildly oestrogenic properties, which could in theory have the potential to disrupt hormone activity. However, far from being perilous, these studies showed the very weak nature of this activity – weaker than, say, the oestrogenic activity from eating an apple and far less than the activity found in health foods such as whole grain cereals and soya. So although oestrogenic activity was established, it was proven to be so low as to be barely there. You could reasonably argue this actually proves the very safety of parabens. So what happened to cause the panic? The principle reason was the publication of a study in 2004, linking parabens in breast cancer tumours to the use of underarm deodorants. This study has since been found to be highly flawed and the professional review during our press forum showed it to be staggeringly inaccurate. In this particular study, all the samples studied, including 6 blank controls, were found to contain the same microscopic traces of parabens. In fact, in some cases, the blank controls (supposed to be just that – blank) actually had a higher parabens count than the breast tissue! Clearly a major flaw. This study does not prove any link at all between parabens and breast cancer. It also does not link deodorants with breast cancer either as the vast majority of deodorants and anti-perspirants do not contain parabens – and never have done, ever! Some have suggested that ingredients in underarm toiletries can ‘migrate’ into breast tissue, but this supposes firstly that they are significantly absorbed through the skin (they aren’t) and also defies basic anatomy. Both our blood circulation and our lymphatic circulation flow in the direction from the heart and down the arm, not the other way around. So unless these ingredients can swim upstream, they are not going to flow toward the breast. If present at all, they would be flushed in the opposite direction.
As a company, we have always taken the safety of all our formulations extremely seriously. You have probably read our ingredients policy which we highlight in each newsletter we send out. We carry out many highly stringent tests to ensure that we more than comply with the steps needed to make sure our entire range is safe to use. Actually for us, parabens are not important ingredients as we only use tiny traces in six of our formulations (we’ve found many other high quality preservatives over the years). So why spend time highlighting this beauty myth? I bother about it simply because it is wrong to create false fears. I now have no doubt about the safety of these naturally occurring group of ingredients and am angered by the needless worry caused by poor research by some – and deliberate scare-mongering by others. I strongly advise those with a lowered immune system, such as the young, the elderly, those with skin disorders or those being treated for conditions such as cancer to take great care and use properly preserved skincare. Preferably preserved with safe and effective ingredients – and that includes the parabens family. We must seriously hope that no-one ends up getting hurt by using toxic skincare – not toxic because it contains preservatives, but toxic because it doesn’t.
caroline rose said...
hi liz
just want to say a big thank you to you and your team for doing an outstanding job with your products.I use the cleanse and polish ,toner and moisturiser which have done wonders for me here all the way in nairobi kenya!do you plan to have an outlet or distributer in kenya soon?
thank you, Rose
March 31st, 2008 at 1:04 pm |
Andrea Page said...
Hi Charlie,
Whilst we don’t have any current plans to introduce a range for children, our products include extremely gentle formulations and a lot of our customers tell us that they have found that many of our products are entirely suitable for use on babies and children.
Our Orange Flower Botanical Body Wash is ideal for Eva. The gentle foaming agent used is 100% plant derived and does not strip the skin of its natural oils, although at such a young age it is best to simply ‘swish’ the product into bath water, rather than applying it directly to the skin.
After bathing is the best time to lock in moisture and hydrate and soften the skin so follow with Nourishing Botanical Body Cream. This concentrated cream absorbs quickly and helps skin to retain moisture throughout the day.
As a common sense precaution, we would always recommend that a patch test is carried out 24 hours prior to using a product for the first time.
March 3rd, 2008 at 12:12 pm |
Amanda Thomas said...
Hi Liz
I was very pleased when I read your blog,I have been extremley concerned about the findings in the press. My daughter, louise, who is 16, was diognosed with a rare form of ovarian cancer last July, she had two operations, which thankfully removed all traces, and has made a full recovery. So as you can imagine I have been looking into all products, be it beauty or cleaning, and foods which could be harmful in any way! I recentley bought eco friendly cleaning products, and a deodorant which doesn’t contain aluminum. You mentioned parabens, does the same apply to the above? And are you looking into doing a deodorant which uses more natural products. Or do you feel that using other deodorants are fine.? my daughter and I have been using your products for a couple of years now and love them. They have definatley helped my daughter through her teenage years. When she was in Hospital the cleanse and polish and lite moisturiser was fantastic,and stopped her skin from drying out. I feel my skin is glowing, I’m 39 and people comment on how young my skin looks. I.ve even got my husband on board. He loves the shaving cream, it’s great for his sensitive skin. Thankyou Liz for all your research…Its very refreshing to hear the TRUTH about ingredients. Amanda
March 3rd, 2008 at 11:34 am |
charlie said...
Well this has made very interesting lunchtime reading (as I munched my apple & bluberry yog!). It is something I have pondered for some time especially as I now have a little 19 month old girl who loves pretty looking / smelling things and its always a concern if Ihave bought or used the right ones, or if I should use the 100% natural on her.
I have to ask though, would you ever consider doing a childrens range? I use a lot of expensive things on Eva’s skin, but none come as close as my Liz Earle products that I use on her when we have a bath or shower together and after with moisturising.
A while ago I went through a phase of buying some childrens “free from” brands not sure I can mention them, but suffice to say they irritated her skin and dryed my hands out terribly and more recently I have been using some natural goods but again these have given her dry patches almost like excema. Interesting huh? I will revert back to using my own products on her skin as they seem to work for her (assuming this is OK her being so tiny and all).
Knowing what I now know after reading your blog I can use the goodies on Eva and feel safe in the knowledge that they are OK but it would be great if you were to ever do a childrens range.
Incidentally I love your products and will continue to use them for a long time to come.
Anyway, I am just about to purchase my next box of goodies so no doubt Eva will be squealing as I get the wonderfully wrapped things out for her to inspect and open! Can’t wait.
February 20th, 2008 at 2:31 pm |
Mary Olver said...
Hi Liz,
I have been quite worried about the information on parabens, and try to use products with alternate preservatives when possible especially for my kids. Your input has given me alot more to think about, and you do make a very valid point concerning safety. Thanks. Oh please tell me you will be coming to Canada soon, your line of skincare would be a breath of fresh air Canadian women would absolutely love!!!!!as I do.
February 20th, 2008 at 2:38 am |
Andrea Page said...
Dear Liz B,
Liz hosted the Truth in Beauty Forum specifically to address this issue and to dispel those question marks hanging over parabens as a skincare ingredient. For us, this is not an ingredient we rely on as we do use so many other alternatives. However, the point of the discussion was to promote more accurate information for both our customers and the media. As the forum experts showed, there is no link between breast cancer and parabens, as the study that originally suggested this was found to be deeply flawed.
The paraben molecules synthesized and used in skincare preservation are absolutely identical on every level; molecular, structure, biochemical to those found in nature; they are the natural preservative in many fruits, for example.
Yes, new and innovative ways of preserving products are on-going and our product research technical team spend a great deal of time on this. However, often the time-tested, old-fashioned ways are found in the end to be the best. Parabens, for example, have been in use for almost a hundred years. New preservation systems do not have a time-tested safety history and cannot automatically be viewed as safer alternatives. Natural does not necessarily mean safer – as you’ll know, many of the most toxic substances are 100% natural, such as cyanide, arsenic, snake venom, botulism etc. Conversely, manmade ingredients have a long history of being low in toxicity and are often more commonplace as preservatives due to the unproven efficacy of natural ingredients, such as grapefruit seed extract. With regard to natural preservatives, several studies have shown grapefruit seed extract – sometimes used as a natural preserving agent – is not effective enough on its own to inhibit the growth of mould and other microbes. Claims have been also made for Vitamin E, but this is an antioxidant that helps to stop rancidity and prolongs the shelf life of other oils. It has no effect on bacteria and mould, and hence cannot be declared as a preservative. Products ‘preserved’ with these ingredients will only have a very short shelf life. You may also be interested to read Liz’s archived blog entries from October 2007 regarding ‘Beauty Addicts: How Toxic Are You?’ and ‘How Toxic Are Your Kids?’.
February 15th, 2008 at 1:46 pm |
Claudia Casali said...
Hi Liz
Thank you for the reassurance. I enjoy your products and trust you and your company 100% and appreciate the high standards you have about your products. When I read the blog my mind was reassured at once. There are very few companies and people you can trust these days but you are definately one of them!
Kind regards
February 14th, 2008 at 7:29 pm |
Liz B said...
Hi, I’ve been involved in the Beauty Industry for many years now, teaching, writing etc. I understand we need to preserve products for our safety, but in my opinion, this is not the point. The point is that we should be spending more time finding out new and innovative ways to preserve our beauty products, and not relying on parabens. Maybe manufacturers could spend less time arguing trying to convince us, and more time finding us better, healthier alternatives? If there is even the slightest link between breast cancer and parabens, we should not be using it. Parabens are synthetic, not natural. Why not choose something with less question marks hanging over it? Liz
February 14th, 2008 at 1:51 pm |
Andrea Page said...
Hi Theresa,
We use talc in Hand Repair, Intensive Nourishing Treatment and Nourishing Botanical Body Cream as it creates a matt finish and does not leave the hands or skin feeling sticky or greasy. The only concerns that we are aware of with talc is when inhaled as a powder; when included in a formulation there is no risk of inhalation.
Should you accidentally transfer Hand Repair on to your clothes; we have found that that it wipes away easily with a dry cloth.
February 14th, 2008 at 1:24 pm |
Gemma Tompkins said...
Thank GOODNESS for common sense; this blog really was a breath of fresh air to read! Personally I am utterly fed up of the scaremongering that goes on every day in the media. You can’t turn on the TV these days without being told that something is going to seriously damage your health. It is disturbing and frightening, especially when it seem that the messages keep changing that the research is often flawed. It is very difficult for normal people to know what to believe.
I am highly reassured by your blog and very interested to hear that products without preservatives can be harmful – I sincerely hope that someone has told the very irritating Sarah Beany about this!
February 14th, 2008 at 12:47 pm |
Theresa said...
Dear Liz
Thank you for clarifying some of the issues around the use of preservatives – really helpful. I have been using a number of your products over the last few years and am very pleased with the results. One of the ingredients that I have a question about is the use of talc in some of the products. I’ve always thought talc could clog the skin and be problematic – are there any views on this? Link to this I have also noticed that whilst the hand repair is great – leaves hand feeling and looking good, if you happen to be wearing dark coloured clothing (as I often am) it does mark just as talc would – any suggestions welcomed.
With warm wishes and thanks.
February 14th, 2008 at 12:14 pm |
Ann Roberts said...
Hi Liz
I was interested in your posting on preservatives. I use your products because I believe they are purer than many on the market. It did unnerve me however to hear you extolling the virtues of parabens etc. With ever more vested interests in proving preservatives et al both a positive or negative issue I think a good dose of healthy scepticsm is always sensible and that it is important that you strive to produce safe products with as few artificial products in them as possible. That way, whatever the eventual findings, Liz Earle products will come out on top.
Regards Ann
February 14th, 2008 at 11:08 am |
Kath Lawton said...
As someone who would not normally add a ‘post’ to a blog, I really need to give you a ‘hoorah’!! I’m currently a (not very) mature student who has just completed an entire module on research and critical appraisal, which really bought home to me how research can be misrepresentated, and how often findings are accepted without looking at the methodology. Thank heavens someone in the beauty industry is taking time to evaluate research properly!!
February 14th, 2008 at 10:21 am |
Dene Godfrey said...
Hi Liz,
It would seem that N. McKinnon needs a little more convincing about parabens! She (or he!) is right that blood flows up (via veins), as well as down the arm (via arteries) – it is, after all, a circulatory system. This is because the arm would otherwise be a dead end, and deoxygenated blood needs to return to the heart to be oxygenated by the lungs. However, the flow of blood from the breast to the armpit area is in one direction only as its passage back to the heart does not take it back via the breast. Therefore, it is simply not possible for parabens to migrate directly from the armpit to the breast. I hope this clarifies the situation!
February 11th, 2008 at 11:36 am |
Beverley said...
Just a short comment to thank you Liz for this entry into your blog. I have been very concerned about the issues you have covered in this article and really do feel reassured after reading this.
I was confident in my choice of your skin and body care but worried about the cosmetic and deodorant alerts. I don’t use much of either as I have to be careful.
Your message about not using mineral oils or sythentic Vitamin E etc came across clearly on QVC which was so comforting as this is something I have often queried with the other well known brands.
February 10th, 2008 at 11:22 am |
Chris Jennings said...
Hi Liz,
I do believe that displacing the many myths that are around is important so we are all fully informed.
I am interested in your blogs and Natural Ingredients as since using your products my skin has cleared up – I used to suffer from acne on the forehead but Cleanse and Polish really helped me and keeps my skin clear!!
From your many appearances on QVC I understand that you have written many books over the years and I was wondering if there were any plans for any new books in the future?
Keep up the good work Liz – There are not many people/companies who would dispell the myths and who take so much care and have so much dedication over the information that their customers have.
Thank you
February 9th, 2008 at 9:01 pm |
n mckinnon said...
intersting how you say the blood flows from heart down arm which is true but it does go the other way too, if it didnt we wouldnt have to worry about snake bites on the arm as the venom would not travel in the body. stiil have misgivings on the parabens
February 9th, 2008 at 1:17 am |
Liz Earle said...
Hi Jane, I have just logged on and I was so pleased to read your comments – Thank you for taking the time to write. Lovely to hear your family stories and thanks for staying with us since the ‘pink packaging’ days! I sometimes find it hard to know whether to tackle a subject like this head-on, but like you, I genuinely do believe in ‘doing the right thing’, even when it is to expose a controversially ingrained un-truth. Mis-information causes such needless panic so it really is time to put these ingredient issues under the spotlight and get some proper information out there! Thanks so much for your support – really very much appreciated. I look forward to ‘seeing’ you on QVC tomorrow!
February 6th, 2008 at 9:00 pm |
Jane Basson said...
Hi Liz
Really interested to read this latest blog entry, as it has been a topic which has interested and confused me for some time now. I admit I have been worried by the controversy surrounding parabens, especially since it appears not just in the tabloid press but in serious articles by beauty journalists and even reference books. Whole businesses seem to be based and marketed on the fact that their products do not contain these substances, and it has sometimes been difficult not to be influenced by this.
I have found reading your blog today to be very reassuring and am writing immediately to tell you how relieved I am that you are doing this indepth and trusted research on behalf of all of us who are trying to “do the right thing” especially when it comes to products we use on our children. I have used your Naturally Active products since the early “pink label” days and fondly remember watching your “Liz Earle’s Lifestyle” programme years ago. Even during my “worried” phase, I was reassured by the fact that, knowing your approach to all things natural and organic, you of all people are the one to trust when it comes to ingredients. It is very reassuring to know the “person behind the brand” and that you are using these products on yourself and your family with complete confidence. Last time you were on QVC, I tried to get through to the studio to tell you that I first starting using your products when my eldest son was a toddler – now he is 13 and using the C&P and SpotOn himself. Plus my Mum has refused to use anything else on her skin since I introduced the products to her about 10 years ago – she is 81 and looks about 65 with amazing skin for her age. So, I hope I haven’t gone on too long, but felt compelled to write to say many thanks for the reassurance. See you on QVC tomorrow.
With very best wishes
Jane Basson
PS Will be staying at the Priory Bay Hotel in August so really looking forward to visiting Union again!
February 6th, 2008 at 4:13 pm |